Wednesday, April 6, 2011

A meal is nice until you eat the pepper

Here in Nepal, people do not pack up their things and leave bustling Kathmandu for a tramp, they go for a trek. Little did I realise, the word 'trek' is not limited to what I envisioned to be scaling a mountain wall, but applies to any form of walking in the wilderness. And thus, trekking was what I found myself to be doing a couple of weekends ago.

Originally thought to be a casual stroll up a hill and down the other side in two days, turned into walking the total amount of steps found in Wellington up to a small village over-run by trekking lodges, called Chisopani. The next day found myself and my two companions, Mary and Eri, powerwalking down the otherside of the beasty hill to Nagarkot.

Upon reflection, the image of the weekend that frequently haunts me is of a group of children bearing sives/ meat hooks? (grass cutters/ possibly could also be used to murder goats), held out at arms-width and growling menacingly as they approach us, malicious grins sizing up our arms and torso-which part would be tastier?
"I'm not a goat!" I cried, and hastened my pace away from the terror children.

Along the way, we befriended a group of Nepali men who became our trekking companions. Within the ages of 25 and 35ish, most were undertaking masters degrees in statistics, physics, computers or similar. So impressed with their education, they deemed it necessary to bore into us why they love their subjects for most of the weekend. All were unimpressed to hear I had no current desire to get that masters degree.  I also shared a delightfully awkward (for him away) conversation about homosexuality in Nepal with one of the men.. The man loved Elton John, and added with a cheeky smile, "he's homosexual!"
According to my Nepali friend, it is best to keep any homosexual thoughts to yourself, especially for males. Sadly this seems to lead to many marriages where the man is supremely unhappy, and his wife is left equally unhappy as her man is in a perpetual state of frustration at his situation. I asked if Kathmandu, being a city, is a bit more relaxed, but he did not know of any gay scenes, but I have heard otherwise.

Our friends also took us to have tea at a hole-in-the-wall teahouse. We sat down and were given a stainless steel cup (very popular here) of a dubious white substance. Incredibly bitter, but better with sugar, it transpired to be freshly made cows curd. After finishing the curd, I made to clear the cups and hand them back to the owner, but was shouted down by our Nepali friends and promptly laughed at and joked of in Nepali. A simple cultural misunderstanding. I made to clear the cups as an act of gratitude and kindness towards the owner, but it is custom for the server to clear the cups as an act of giving food to a friend. The cultural subtleties are slowly surfacing. The Nepali culture is illuminated by acts of friendship and humanity.


Twenty minutes from my house is Patan Durbar Square, full of old temples and worshipers and tourists.
At one end of the square, were tables of goods to be sold and of interest to me. Small Buddhas or carved birds were not the reason I stood staring at the armies of perfectly aligned figurines. The vendor told me it takes him two hours each morning to set up the table and line of his wares, each and every day in the same order.

Volunteering:
I am currently volunteering at a children's boarding house, it is the school holidays so myself and 3 other volunteers is running a holiday programme. The kids are from rural areas or poor backgrounds, and are sponsored to live there and attend a local school. I am going to set up letter writing for the kids, as it seems they have little contact with their families.

Will be finishing up with them at the end of the month and am beginning to plan my adventures. So far am planning to live and volunteer in a small village for a couple of weeks in May.


A theory:
A woman's smile is laced with cheek, her eyes sparkle and size you up if you say "hello". Her three sons are completing various levels of study soon in science, mathematics and business, and are due to leave home shortly after the degree is finalised. As they will all be undertaking masters, the three serve as worthy suitors. While your lack of Hinduism is of course a major drawback, she thinks you would look alright in family photographs with her grandson on your hip.
Better lengthen that hemline girl, there s dahl baht to be cooked before the power is shut off.